One of the most confusing aspects of buying pearls is understanding grading systems. Unlike diamonds, which have a universally recognised grading standard (the 4Cs from GIA), pearls lack a single, industry-wide grading system. Different sellers use different scales, and the same grade can mean very different things depending on who's doing the grading.
This guide will help you navigate the various pearl grading systems, understand what each grade typically means, andâmost importantlyâlearn to evaluate pearl quality with your own eyes rather than relying solely on grade labels.
Why There's No Universal Pearl Grading Standard
The diamond industry spent decades developing standardised grading through organisations like the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). Unfortunately, no equivalent standardisation exists for pearls. Several factors contribute to this:
- Pearls are organic gems with more variables than mineral gemstones
- Different pearl types (Akoya, freshwater, South Sea, Tahitian) have different characteristics
- Cultural differences between Japanese, Chinese, Australian, and French Polynesian pearl industries
- Historical lack of coordination between pearl-producing regions
The result is a somewhat chaotic grading landscape where savvy consumers need to understand multiple systemsâand maintain healthy scepticism about grade claims.
The AAA-A Grading System
The most common system you'll encounter, particularly for Akoya and freshwater pearls, uses letter grades from AAA (highest) to A (lowest). Some sellers extend this with AA+ and A+ intermediate grades.
AAA Grade Pearls
The highest quality designation in this system. AAA pearls should exhibit:
- Surface: 95% or more blemish-free (minor imperfections visible only under close inspection)
- Lustre: Excellentâbright, sharp reflections visible on the surface
- Shape: Round or near-round (spherical to the eye)
- Nacre: Thick, with no visible nucleus or thin spots
AA+ Grade Pearls
Very high quality, with slight variations from AAA:
- Surface: 90-95% blemish-free
- Lustre: Very good to excellent
- Shape: Round to near-round
AA Grade Pearls
Good quality suitable for everyday wear:
- Surface: 80-90% blemish-free
- Lustre: Goodâvisible reflections but not mirror-like
- Shape: Near-round to slightly off-round
A+ and A Grade Pearls
Lower quality grades with more visible imperfections:
- Surface: 70-80% (A+) or less than 70% (A) blemish-free
- Lustre: Moderateâless defined reflections
- Shape: May be visibly off-round or baroque
Be wary of "AAAA" or "gem grade" designationsâthese aren't part of any standard system and are often marketing terms. Legitimate high-end dealers typically use AAA as their top grade. Claims of grades above AAA should raise questions about the seller's credibility.
The Tahitian A-D Grading System
Tahitian pearls from French Polynesia use a government-regulated grading system where A is the highest grade (opposite to how you might expect). This system was established by the French Polynesian government to maintain quality standards for their pearl exports.
A Grade (Highest)
- Surface imperfections on less than 10% of the pearl's surface
- Excellent lustre with strong light reflection
- Round or near-round shape
B Grade
- Surface imperfections on less than 30% of the surface
- Good lustre
- Imperfections concentrated in one area (can be hidden in setting)
C Grade
- Surface imperfections on less than 60% of the surface
- Medium lustre
- More visible blemishes
D Grade
- Surface imperfections exceeding 60% of the surface
- Lower lustre
- Legal minimum for export (lower quality pearls cannot legally be exported from French Polynesia)
Confusing but important: Tahitian A grade â Akoya AAA grade (both are top quality). Don't confuse Tahitian "A" (excellent) with the AAA system's "A" (lower quality).
South Sea Pearl Grading
South Sea pearls, particularly those from Australia, often use a hybrid system or proprietary grading scales. Australian South Sea pearl producers typically grade on the AAA-A system, but some use descriptive terms:
- Gem Quality: Equivalent to AAAâexceptional in all factors
- Fine Quality: Equivalent to AA+-AAâvery good but not perfect
- Good Quality: Equivalent to A+âvisible imperfections but good lustre
- Commercial Quality: Lower grades suitable for less critical applications
Given South Sea pearls' high value, always request detailed information about the grading criteria used by the specific seller.
What Grades Can't Tell You
While grades provide useful shorthand, they have significant limitations:
Colour Isn't Graded
Pearl grades typically focus on lustre, surface, and shapeânot colour. Two pearls of the same grade can have very different colours, and colour preference is highly personal. Golden South Sea pearls aren't necessarily "better" than white ones; they're simply different.
Size Isn't Graded
A 6mm AAA pearl and a 12mm AAA pearl have the same grade but vastly different values. Size is measured separately in millimetres.
Overall Beauty Is Subjective
Sometimes a technically lower-grade pearl has a unique beauty that surpasses "perfect" specimens. Baroque pearls with exceptional lustre can be more captivating than round pearls with lesser glow.
How to Evaluate Pearls Beyond Grades
Rather than relying solely on grade labels, learn to evaluate pearls yourself:
The Lustre Test
Look at the pearl's surface under good lighting. Can you see clear reflections? Can you see your own reflection in the pearl? High-quality lustre creates sharp, bright reflectionsânot fuzzy, diffuse light.
The Surface Inspection
Examine pearls closely (a jeweller's loupe helps). Note any bumps, pits, wrinkles, or discoloured spots. Consider whether these would be visible when wornâblemishes visible only under magnification are less concerning than those obvious to the naked eye.
The Roll Test
Roll the pearl on a flat surface. A truly round pearl rolls smoothly in a straight line. Off-round pearls wobble or roll in curved paths.
The Comparison Method
When possible, examine multiple pearls side by side. Differences in lustre and quality become much more apparent through direct comparison than when viewing pearls in isolation.
- There is no universal pearl grading standardâsystems vary by seller and pearl type
- AAA is typically the highest grade in the AAA-A system (Akoya, freshwater)
- A is the highest grade in the Tahitian A-D system
- Be sceptical of grades above AAAâthese are usually marketing terms
- Grades don't account for colour, size, or subjective beauty
- Trust your eyes: examine lustre, surface, and shape yourself
- Buy from reputable sellers who explain their grading criteria
Making Informed Purchases
When shopping for pearls, ask sellers specific questions about their grading:
- What grading system do you use?
- What criteria determine each grade level?
- Can you show me examples of different grades for comparison?
- What is your return policy if I'm not satisfied with the quality?
Reputable sellers will answer these questions openly. Evasive or vague responses about grading should raise concerns.
Ultimately, the best approach combines understanding of grading systems with personal evaluation. Grades provide useful starting points, but your own assessment of a pearl's beauty and quality should guide your final decision.
Have questions about evaluating pearl quality? Our team is here to help.